Cuyo Island

Cuyo is the island that Palawan forgot to develop. Sitting in the middle of the Sulu Sea between Palawan and Panay, reachable only by a six to eight hour ferry from Puerto Princesa, this small island was once the capital of Palawan province — the Spanish built a fort here in the 1600s, the town was the center of trade and governance, and then history moved on and Cuyo stayed behind. What remains is a Spanish-era fort, heritage houses, cashew plantations, and an island life that operates at a pace most of the Philippines left behind decades ago.

There are no resorts. There are no ATMs you can count on. There’s a ferry schedule that the weather sometimes overrides. If that sounds like a problem, Cuyo isn’t for you. If it sounds like exactly what you’re looking for, welcome to Palawan’s best-kept secret.

What’s the History Here?

Cuyo Fort is one of the oldest Spanish fortifications in Palawan, built in the 17th century to defend against Moro raiders. The walls still stand, enclosing a church and a small plaza that served as the heart of Cuyo when it was the capital of the entire Palawan province. Walking through the fort, you’re standing in a piece of Philippine history that most tourists — even those who visit Palawan — never see.

Beyond the fort, the town itself is a quiet museum. Heritage houses line the streets, built by families who’ve been here for generations. The old Spanish stone pier still juts into the water. And the locals — the Cuyonon people — speak their own language and maintain traditions that have survived every wave of change that washed over the island.

Hire a motorcycle and ride to Magsaysay, the eastern town where the famous Filipino movie Ploning was filmed. The landscapes that made it onto the screen are still there, unchanged.

What Are the Beaches Like?

Capusan Beach — The town beach and the easiest to reach. Good for a morning swim and watching the fishing boats come in, but not the island’s best water.

Quijano Beach — On the opposite side of the island from the main town. Cleaner water, fewer people, and the kind of quiet beach that rewards the effort of getting there. The Lucbuan Marine Protected Area nearby offers some of the only quality snorkeling directly accessible from the main island.

Bisucay Island — The nearest inhabited island, about 4km from the town pier. No hotels — this is camping territory. Take the daily passenger boat or charter one. A night on Bisucay is as close to castaway living as you’ll get without leaving civilization entirely.

Manamoc Island — Remote, with a mix of sea, waterfalls, and mountains. No resorts — staying with a local family is the only option. This is authentic island Philippines at its most raw.

Pandan and surrounding islets — Smaller, scenic islands included in local island-hopping tours. More privacy than anything in El Nido or Coron, at a fraction of the cost.

What’s the Deal with Cashews?

Cuyo is the cashew capital of Palawan. The island’s plantations produce cashews that are harvested and processed entirely by hand — a labor-intensive process that most people never think about when they grab a bag at the store. Visit a local plantation to see how the nuts are extracted from their shells (each one grows on the bottom of a cashew apple, which is itself edible and sweet), roasted over wood fire, and packaged. Buy directly from the farmers — the freshness and quality is incomparable, and the price is a fraction of what you’d pay anywhere else.

Cashew season peaks around March to May, but processed nuts are available year-round.

Where to Eat on Cuyo

Beachfront carinderias — Scattered along the path to Capusan Beach, these small canteens serve whatever was caught or cooked that morning. You eat alongside residents — rice, fish, vegetables — and the price is almost nothing. ₱50–150 ($0.90–2.70 USD).

Local wet market — Near Capusan Beach, the market has fresh seafood and regional produce. For the full experience, buy your fish and have a carinderia cook it for you.

Barangay Balakbak — Not a restaurant but a farming community worth visiting. See traditional agriculture and livestock raising, and the families are often happy to share a meal if you ask respectfully.

There are no fancy restaurants on Cuyo. That’s the point. The food is fresh, local, and served by the people who caught or grew it.

Where to Stay on Cuyo

Local guesthouses — A handful of simple guesthouses in the town center. Basic rooms, shared bathrooms in some cases, and the genuine hospitality that small Philippine islands are known for. ₱500–1,200/night ($9–22 USD).

Homestays — For the most authentic experience, arrange to stay with a local family. Your guesthouse or the tourism office can help connect you. Meals often included.

Camping on Bisucay — Bring a tent and supplies for a night on the neighboring island. No facilities — just you, the sand, and the stars.

Amanpulo — At the extreme other end, Amanpulo is a luxury resort on Pamalican Island in the Cuyo archipelago. Ultra-exclusive, $1,000+/night, with its own airstrip. The Lagoon Club serves high-end Japanese cuisine. It exists in a completely different universe from Cuyo town, but it’s technically in the same island group.

Festivals

The Cuyo Festival celebrates the island’s patron saint with street processions, music, and community feasts. Like everything on Cuyo, it’s intimate — you’re not watching a festival, you’re participating in one.

What’s Hiding on Cuyo?

Inland hiking trails — Beyond the standard trek up Mt. Aguado, Cuyo has a network of trails leading to hidden lagoons and hilltop views across the island’s interior. Ask locals for guidance — the trails aren’t marked.

Kitesurfing — Cuyo’s steady winds have turned it into a niche kitesurfing destination. Flat water, consistent breeze, and zero crowds. If you kite, this might be the most uncrowded spot in the Philippines.

Heritage walk through Cuyo town — Heritage houses, the old Spanish stone pier, and the fort create a walking tour through centuries of history. The town is small enough to cover in an hour, but the stories behind the buildings deserve more time.

Cashew apple juice — Most people only know the nut, but the cashew apple — the fruit the nut hangs from — is sweet, juicy, and available fresh on the island. Try it as juice or eat it straight.

Cuyo isn’t for everyone, and that’s the highest compliment you can pay it. It’s a six-to-eight hour ferry from Puerto Princesa to an island with no resorts, no reliable ATMs, and a pace of life that makes even rural Philippines look hurried. What it has is a 400-year-old fort, cashew plantations where the farmers still process every nut by hand, beaches on surrounding islets where camping is the only option, and a community of Cuyonon people who’ve been here since before the Spanish showed up and built their walls.

It was the capital of Palawan once. Now it’s just an island in the Sulu Sea, and that demotion might be the best thing that ever happened to it.