Boracay was my first destination in the Philippines. A friend with a web design business on the islands invited me to come visit in 2003 — and that invitation changed the trajectory of my life.
Back then, things were beautifully raw. There were no real tickets per se — I don’t think they even checked IDs. We were weighed before boarding, so the crew could balance the puddle jumper for the 45-minute hop to Caticlan. The terminal was still a little bit tropical — kind of island-y, open air, which was great. From there, a trike to the jetty, then a large banca boat for the crossing to Boracay. In those days, the island still felt like a secret the rest of the world hadn’t quite found yet.
It was a magical place. Fifteen return trips and 23 years later, Jenice and I still keep coming back — though the island we find each time is a little different from the one before. This is the story of Boracay across two decades, and everything you need to know before your first visit.
The Arrival
Caticlan jetty, banca boat crossing, first glimpse of White Beach through the spray. Twenty years later, the rush hasn't faded.
How has Boracay changed since the 2018 closure?
To understand today’s Boracay, you need to know what happened to it. When I first stepped off that banca boat in 2003, the island hosted maybe 300,000 visitors a year. By 2017, that number had swelled to 2 million — pushing the island to its breaking point. President Duterte called it a “cesspool” and ordered Boracay shut down for six months in 2018.
The rehabilitation was dramatic. The government demolished over 900 illegal structures, enforced a 30-meter beach easement, upgraded sewage treatment, and capped daily visitors. Room inventory dropped from 12,000 to roughly 6,000–9,000 as only DOT-accredited hotels were allowed to reopen.
2003: The wild years
When I first stepped off that banca boat, Boracay was a backpacker’s paradise in the truest sense. The terminal at Caticlan was open-air and charmingly tropical. No digital booking systems — just show up, get weighed for the puddle jumper, and go. White Beach had cottages right on the sand, fire dancers every night, and beachside bars where your toes stayed in the powder.
2026: The reborn island
Today the beach is wider, the water is cleaner, and electric trikes have replaced their gas-guzzling predecessors. The nightlife is quieter, but the sunsets are exactly as breathtaking as they were two decades ago. It’s a model for sustainable island tourism — and still unmissable.
The Sand
Seven beaches, one island. Four kilometers of powdery white sand that ruined every other beach for me — and a few hidden coves most visitors never find.
Which Boracay beach is right for you?
The 4-kilometer stretch of White Beach gets all the attention, but Boracay has beaches for every mood. Here’s how they break down after 20+ trips.
White Beach (Stations 1–3) — The crown jewel. Four kilometers of impossibly fine, powdery sand divided into three stations. Station 1 for luxury resorts and the finest sand. Station 2 for D’Mall shopping and nightlife. Station 3 for quieter, budget-friendly stays. Walking the entire length at golden hour is mandatory.
Puka Beach — Named for the puka shells that wash ashore, this is Boracay’s wilder, less developed northern beach. Coarser sand, bigger waves, and a fraction of the crowds. This is the Boracay that feels closest to what the whole island used to be.
Bulabog Beach — The windy side and Boracay’s watersports hub — kiteboarding, windsurfing, and the annual International Funboard Cup bring athletes from around the world. Not a lounging beach, but an adrenaline one. If you’re visiting in January, the Ati-Atihan Festival in nearby Kalibo — the “Mother of All Philippine Festivals” — is a short trip from Boracay and absolutely worth the day. Check our festivals calendar and guide for exact dates and planning tips.
Diniwid Beach — A hidden cove just north of White Beach. Rocky outcrops frame a small stretch of sand with a handful of boutique resorts and a more secluded, relaxed atmosphere.
Ilig-Iligan Beach — Accessible by e-trike land tour, this secluded spot with its natural rock formations and caves rewards the adventurous. The bat cave nearby is a unique side trip.
Willy’s Rock — Not a beach but Boracay’s most photographed landmark — a volcanic rock formation topped with a small shrine to the Virgin Mary, rising from the shallows at Station 1.
The Journey
No airport on the island. Puddle jumpers, banca boats, and electric trikes — getting to Boracay is an adventure in itself.
How do you get to Boracay?
Boracay has no airport of its own — getting there is a multi-step adventure that’s part of the charm. Here’s the route from Manila, tested across 20+ trips over two decades.
Step 1: Fly to Caticlan or Kalibo. Caticlan (MPH) is the closer airport — about 1 hour from Manila, then just minutes to the jetty. Kalibo (KLO) is the cheaper option, but requires a 1.5–2 hour van ride to Caticlan port afterward. Caticlan’s runway is short, so weight limits are strict — yes, they still weigh passengers.
Step 2: Caticlan Jetty Port. Pay the terminal fee (₱100), environmental fee (₱300), and boat fare. The terminal has come a long way from the open-air, island-y vibe of 2003 — it’s now a proper building with waiting areas and counters. Have your hotel booking confirmation ready — “no booking, no entry” is enforced.
Step 3: Banca boat crossing. A short 10–15 minute ride across the channel. The traditional outrigger bancas are still the standard crossing vessel — exactly as they were when I made my first crossing in 2003, luggage balanced between the outriggers.
Step 4: E-trike to your resort. Boracay’s new electric tricycles are clean, quiet, and affordable. ₱20/person shared rides between stations, or ₱50–100 for a private charter. The island is compact — everything is reachable.
- Fly Caticlan if budget allows. The time saved over Kalibo is worth every peso. The landing approach — short runway, mountains on one side, ocean on the other — is an experience in itself.
- Weight limits are real. Caticlan-bound flights enforce strict baggage limits (usually 10–15kg). Pack light or pay the excess — they don't make exceptions.
- Book accommodation before arriving. Post-rehabilitation, "no booking, no entry" is enforced at Caticlan jetty. You'll need to show hotel confirmation.
- Entry fees: Terminal fee ₱100 + environmental fee ₱300. Have cash ready — total about ₱400 ($7 USD) per person.
- E-trike land tours: ₱500/hour for up to 4 people. Great way to hit Puka Beach, Ilig-Iligan, and the viewpoints in one loop.
Where to Stay
Station 1 for the finest sand and luxury resorts. Station 2 for nightlife and shopping. Station 3 for budget stays and quieter vibes.
Where should you stay on Boracay?
The three stations of White Beach each have a distinct personality. Your choice depends on what kind of trip you want.
Station 1 (Luxury) — The finest, widest stretch of sand. Home to Shangri-La, The Lind, and Discovery Shores. ₱8,000–25,000+/night (~$142–$445+ USD). If you want the postcard Boracay experience, this is it. The beach here is noticeably less crowded and the sand is the softest on the island.
Station 2 (Mid-Range) — The social center. D’Mall is here — shopping, restaurants, nightlife. ₱2,500–8,000/night (~$44–$142 USD). More energy, more options, more people. Best for first-timers who want to be in the middle of everything.
Station 3 (Budget) — Quieter, more laid-back, and significantly cheaper. ₱800–2,500/night (~$14–$44 USD). The backpacker vibe lives on here. The sand is a touch coarser than Station 1, but you’ll have more space and a more authentic island feel.
Where Should You Eat on Boracay?
The food scene spans beach shacks to proper restaurants. Post-rehabilitation, the quality has gone up across the board.
- D’Talipapa Seafood Market — The classic Boracay food experience. Buy fresh seafood at the wet market, carry it to a nearby cook-for-you restaurant, and pay a cooking fee. A full seafood feast for ₱400 ($7 USD) per person. For more regional dishes to try across the islands, see our Philippine cuisine guide.
- Smoke Restaurant — Upscale beach dining with excellent grilled meats and cocktails. One of the best restaurants on the island. ₱800 ($14 USD) per person.
- Nonie’s — Filipino comfort food and seafood on a beachfront terrace. Great for families. ₱350 ($6.30 USD) per person.
- Lemoni Cafe & Restaurant — Mediterranean and healthy options. Popular for brunch and fresh salads. ₱300 ($5.40 USD) per person.
- Astoria Current — Fine dining at the Astoria resort. Worth the splurge for a special night. ₱600 ($11 USD) per person.
- Andok’s — Budget rotisserie chicken chain with a Boracay outpost. When you want a cheap, filling meal between beach sessions. ₱150 ($2.70 USD) per person.
Island Life
Sunset paraw sailing, cliff diving at Ariel's Point, island hopping to Crystal Cove — and simply walking 4 kilometers of White Beach at golden hour.
What should you do on Boracay?
Island hopping to Crystal Cove and Crocodile Island is the classic day trip — snorkeling, cave swimming, and lunch on a floating platform. Sunset paraw sailing on a traditional outrigger is Boracay at its most photogenic. Cliff diving at Ariel’s Point (a separate island, 30 minutes by boat) offers 5 platforms from 3 to 15 meters — genuinely thrilling. Helmet diving lets non-swimmers walk the ocean floor and see tropical fish up close. And the simplest pleasure: walking the entire 4km of White Beach at golden hour, when the sky turns the kind of orange and pink that no filter can replicate.
Boracay is also one of the best snorkeling destinations in the Philippines — the rehabilitation brought the marine life back in a big way. See our best snorkeling in the Philippines guide for the full breakdown.
Boracay accepts Bitcoin at 250+ locations — it's genuinely a "Bitcoin Island." But don't rely on that. Bring cash in pesos. ATMs exist on the island but can run out during peak season, and some smaller restaurants and tricycle drivers only take cash. Also — if you want the best lechon on the island, ask a local, not a tourist guide. The beachfront restaurants charge double for the same pig.
The Sunset
Twenty years of Philippine sunsets — and Boracay's still hits different. The sky turns colors that don't have names, the paraw sails go black against the light, and for a moment the whole island goes quiet.
What is it about Boracay that keeps you coming back?
Boracay in 2003 was the spark that lit a flame — 40+ countries later, I keep coming back to the Philippines. This island didn’t just change my travel plans. It changed my life.
Fifteen trips over 23 years. I’ve watched this island transform from a backpacker secret to a global destination to a presidential cesspool decree to a rehabilitated model of sustainable tourism. For the full story of those early days, read our Boracay 20 Years Ago blog post. Through all of it, the thing that hasn’t changed is what drew me here in the first place — the sand, the sunsets, and the feeling that the Philippines has something no other country I’ve visited quite has.
Jenice and I now bring our son, who’s already obsessed with the banca boats. The island we show him is different from the one I discovered in 2003 — cleaner, more regulated, less wild. If you’re planning a multi-island trip, Cebu is a natural companion — it’s where most Visayas adventures start. But the magic is still there. The 4-kilometer walk at sunset. The fire dancers on the beach. The way the powder squeaks under your feet. Boracay is where it all began for me, and it’s still the first destination I recommend to anyone visiting the Philippines for the first time.
Before You Go
Booking requirements, weight limits, monsoon season — a few things we wish someone had told us before that first puddle jumper flight.
- Best time: February through April is the sweet spot — hot, dry, calm waters. November to January is pleasant but can be breezy. Avoid June through October unless you want bargain rates and don't mind monsoon rain and algae season.
- Visa: Most nationalities get 30 days visa-free.
- Money: ATMs exist on the island but can run dry in peak season. Withdraw in Manila, Kalibo, or Caticlan before crossing.
- SIM card: Get Globe or Smart at the airport before flying to Caticlan. Coverage on Boracay is solid.
- Safety: Boracay is very safe for tourists. Post-rehabilitation security is visible and professional. Standard beach precautions apply — don't leave valuables unattended.
- Health: Tap water is not safe to drink — stick to bottled or filtered. There's a basic clinic near Station 1 for minor issues, but serious cases require evacuation to Metropolitan Doctors' Hospital in Mandurriao, Iloilo. Avoid walking the D'Mall area very late at night.
- Packing essentials: Reef-safe sunscreen is encouraged and increasingly enforced post-rehabilitation. Bring mosquito repellent, a rain jacket for shoulder season, and sturdy flip-flops for rocky beach sections at Puka and Ilig-Iligan.
- Local culture: Boracay is an Ati (Bisaya) language area — try "Maayong hapon" (Good afternoon) and use "Kuya" or "Ate" when addressing service staff. "Po" shows respect when speaking to elders. Tipping isn't expected but ₱20–50 for good service is always appreciated.